20: "To the country: Part 2"

Sole and I slept in til noon on Saturday. We were going to the country, to a farm outside Maciá that her uncle José takes care of.

It was hot and windy and humid. We left her grandma’s house and walked down the main street. We stopped at a kiosk to see if they had El Uno, one of Paraná’s daily newspapers. An article of mine was going to be in it. I had been writing what I called portraits of contemporary U.S. culture. This week’s was going to be on David Foster Wallace.

We didn’t see an Uno. We asked the lady and she said it doesn’t come to Maciá.

We passed an office building, the only one on the street. It had black tinted windows and was surrounded by a tall dark fence. There were delivery trucks in the parking lot.

This was the headquarters of Huevo Campo (“Country Egg”), which is one of biggest egg distributors in MercoSur. The Roths are the family that own the company. They’re the richest people in Maciá and their son went to Harvard. They own a school, and an evangelical church, too.

On the website of Huevo Campo it says "producido por familias que creen en el Poder y Amor de Dios" (made by families that believe in the power and love of God).

We got to the edge of town after walking a few more blocks. We passed some speed bumps. A warning sign called them donkey humps (lomo de burro).

We walked under a tree, to wait in the shade and try to hitch a ride to the farm. Sole’s aunt, Dioni, and José were cooking an asado for us, with chicken and sábalo, a big river fish. The food was almost done and we should’ve been there already.

A couple of cars and trucks came by on the gravel road. Sole stood up and put out her thumb but they just looked at us and pointed down the road and kept going.

They were going to work at a recycling plant, she said. The plant was a quarter mile down the highway. You could see it from where we sat.

I took some pictures and Sole and I drank from a bottle of Sprite she’d bought. We drank with a straw. That’s usually how they drink from plastic bottles in Argentina.

She called her aunt and they came and picked us up in her uncle’s new used car.

We got in. They told us we should’ve gotten up earlier, that no one’d be headed out this way so late in the day.

We drove along the highway. A guy on a horse was coming in the other direction. He was wearing baggy brown pants and a white shirt and a flat brimmed hat. He had a knife hanging from his belt.

I asked if that was a gaucho. I said it was the first real one I’d seen.

That’s José’s son, Sole told me. José’s a gaucho, too, she said. José was wearing an aqua blue polo and khaki slacks and moccasins and glasses.

We got to the farm. We pulled up to the house and got out and a pack of dogs came up and barked at us.

In the yard of the house was a cage with a couple of parakeets. They were squawking and screeching when we got close. Dioni said they do that with strangers. She came over and talked to them and they quieted down. She got them to repeat what she’d say.

Behind the parakeet cage was a big pen with ducks and roosters and chickens.

Sole went inside and got a plastic pitcher and we went to a big mulberry tree in the front yard to pick berries.

She stood on a plastic chair and I held the pitcher. The ripe ones fell from a touch. The juice stained our fingers and hands.

The food was ready and we went inside and sat down to eat.

The sábalo had a lot of bones and you had to feel the meat in the front of your mouth, with your tongue and your teeth, carefully, so you didn’t swallow any.

There was a tomato and onion salad, squash, and homemade bread. We drank a knock-off lemon lime soda.

Dioni served fruit salad for dessert.

After lunch Sole and I left the farm and walked on a path through the monte, to a creek.

There were cows grazing in the forests along the way. We walked past an electric fence that wrapped around another field.

We saw the nest of a bird up in the trees. It’s made of dried mud and is called an hornillo, which means little oven. It’s got an entrance on one side, like a cave.

There were ducks in the creek. They had a blue in their feathers that glowed in the sunlight.

When we headed back the cows stopped and turned and stared at us. We stopped, then walked ahead, slowly. The cows relaxed and some turned away and some kept looking, but none of them moved.

We got back to the farm in the late afternoon.

We sat down at a picnic table under a portico, in the backyard, to eat some more fruit salad.

José took a sheep from a pen and brought it close by and strung it up by one leg from the mulberry tree.

Sole got nervous and started breathing hard and telling José no. She turned away and covered her eyes.

I kept eating the fruit salad and turned to look at what José was doing.

He cut the sheep’s neck and let the blood pour onto the ground. It was thick and steaming and splashing into the dirt and the grass and the fallen berries.

The dogs came close and waited with their tongues out.

The sheep kept kicking after the blood had drained.

José began butchering it. He cut off the hoofs and tossed them to the dogs. You could hear the crunch while they chewed them. There was blood and wool on their snouts.

I was taking pictures. I had never seen this before.

Dioni called me over. She was posing with one of the dogs. It was up on its hind legs and had a cap on its head. I took a picture then turned back to the sheep.

José stripped and pull off the wool, then split the stomach.

José was talking to Sole and I. He took out the kidney. It was bright blue and wet. It’s the kidney, he said, just like you have. He tossed it into the grass and a dog went for it.

He pulled out the rest of the organs in one big bundle – the stomach and intestines and all that – and threw them onto the lawn.

The dogs ran for them and chewed and ripped them apart.

A black cat came by and tried to nibble at the organs but a collie growled and it backed away and had to watch.

Each dog took different parts. The collie took the stomach. It split it open and green mush oozed out and didn’t smell good. It was partially-digested grass, José said.

A tiny black lab was eating the small intestine. The stuff inside was splattered on its paws. It pulled at them like spaghetti.

The dogs looked happy and focused.

José was wearing the same clothes as earlier. There were big dark stains on his pants now.

Dioni took me and Sole into the barn, past big tractors, past sacks of feed and fertilizer. We went into one part that was dark and stuffy. There was a cardboard box on the ground. It had a half-dozen puppies in it. They were feeding on its mom.

We shined a flashlight inside and the mom – a tiny, short-haired dog – looked up at us. Sole took one of the puppies out of the box. It fit in her hand. She put it back and we left.

We walked into the chicken coop and Dioni and Sole collected the eggs. José came by and threw seed to the birds and they all came by and started pecking and fighting.

The day was getting late and we were going to head back into town. José had butchered the sheep for somebody and had to drop off the meat.

Dioni took the parakeets out and put them into a tiny cage to bring them with. They´ll bite everyone but her, she said.

We got into the car and drove down the road to the gate. I got out and opened it up. José drove ahead but then Sole shouted that I’d left my door open. They stopped and shut the door, then I closed and locked the gate.

Well, I did something on the farm, Sole said.

We got into town and walked to Sole’s mom’s house. She made empanadas for us. Sole didn’t like them much and got out the leftover perdix from the night before.

We went back to Toni’s for ice cream afterwards. Toni served us again.

We went home and changed and then went to one of the two social clubs in town and had a couple drinks with some of Sole’s old high school friends.

* * *
Sunday we slept in again then got up and walked to Dioni’s house for lunch. José made tallerines, which are a pasta like spaghetti, from scratch.

We got there late and they and Jose’s son - the gaucho - had already finished eating. They served us plates and we sat and ate while they had seconds.

José´s son didn´t speak much. Sole said he´s studying biology in Paraná and hitchhikes back and forth from Maciá every week. He works on the farm on the weekends. His hands were so big the fingers looked swollen.

We finished and left and stopped by to see Sole’s friend Diana. She was working at an ice cream parlor. Along the way we passed a nice two-story house that had the same black fence around it as the Huevo Campo office. Sole said it was one of the Roth homes.

We got to the ice cream parlor. It was connected to the house of an old couple, who own the store and make the ice cream there.

When we went up to the counter I could see through into the living room. The curtains were drawn and an old man was sleeping in a recliner.

We got two-scoop cones and played a card game. Nobody came in. I did a magic trick that I’d learned when I was in middle school by taping and studying a David Blaine TV special. He’d done it for villagers in the Amazon.

Diana’s shift ended and we walked together to go see another old high school friend. She was with her baby – a boy who was about a year old. We drank tereré, which is mate served cold with fruit juice.

The sky was getting dark and we headed back to Sole’s grandparents’ house to pack our bags. We had to buy bus tickets to go back to Paraná. Since it was Sunday we had to wait for the station attendant to show up at 7:00 PM. The bus was coming at 7:40 and we had to meet it at a highway junction 10 miles outside Maciá.

José and Dioni came by to say goodbye and take the key to the house. One of the dogs came with them in the car.

Another dog came up and got into a fight with José’s and he threw a rock and it ran off.

Sole and I said bye and left and got to the bus station. Her brother Pepe was going to give us a ride to the junction. He had to get up at 3:00 AM the next day to do his mail route.

The bus station attendant wasn’t there at 7:00. We waited as the sun set and the sky looked stormy towards where we were headed.

The guy finally showed up. He was bald and sweating. He got the computer turned on and we asked for the tickets. He said there were three seats left. We bought the tickets as Pepe showed up in his station wagon.

I rode shotgun and Sole sat in back. When we got up to speed he asked me if I wanted to put on my seatbelt. Argentine’s don’t wear seatbelts.

We got onto the highway. It was a two-lane road. There was no shoulder, just a strip of grass and then fields. It was windy and Pepe went into the grass a couple times. There was lightning up ahead and it smelled like rain.

We got to the exchange. A couple other cars and a couple other people were there, waiting for the same bus.

We got out and it was breezy and cool and you could see the storm close-by but it never started raining. I took a few more pictures while Sole talked to her brother.

The bus showed up and we got on. Our seats were in the way back. We drove into the storm and the rain and lightning.

We got back to Paraná around 10:30.

19: "To the country: Part 1"

My friend Sole is from a farm town in the middle of Entre Ríos province. It’s called Maciá. It’s got a population of 10,000 and is surrounded by soy and sorghum fields, and pasture. Sole said the population´s really not quite 10,000, but they like to round-up.

The land there is rolling and green and dry. It’s called monte, which is a mix of prairie grasses and bushes and creeks and rivers. There’s palm trees, and a lot of thorn trees called espinillos.

Sole is short for Soledad, which means solitude. She moved out of town after high school. She left to go to Córdoba with her then-boyfriend who was finishing a thesis on Amartya Sen. Córdoba’s the second biggest city in the country, and is hundreds of miles west of Maciá.

She moved to Paraná this year, a few months ago. She’d been studying law at the University of Córdoba, which was founded in the early 1500’s. She’s dropped that major and is looking for a new one, to study here. The way Argentine university’s work is you have to start over, from the beginning, if you change majors.

She’s been looking for work since she moved here. Her mom got her a job working for an ambulance company, selling their emergency service to businesses in town. She had been working for a law firm, but her old roommate was dating the boss, as well as dating a guy who was also going out with Sole’s cousin. Sole told her cousin. The roommate told the boss to get rid of Sole.

She moved away from that roommate and lives in a girls’ boarding house with Flor, an old friend from Maciá.

She has a lot of free time now. She does gymnastics. She sleeps a lot, and reads a lot. She likes Ray Carver and Charles Bukowski and John Cheever.

She sprays her books with perfume so they smell nice when she turns the page. Her Ray Carver anthology smells like lilac and bubble gum.

* * *

Spring is ending here. The days are longer than the nights. We went to Maciá during a heat wave, when it was humid and breezy and near 100º at midday.

We left Friday afternoon. It was a three-and-a-half hour bus ride. We stopped in a few other small towns, including one where people still speak German. They call the Germans here Rusos, which means Russian.

Sole and I got off at a highway junction. The buses don’t stop at her town in the afternoon.

You could see the horizon in every direction. There were some barns nearby, and others far off. I felt like I was in Champaign, in Illinois. It was late afternoon and mellow and quiet.

We walked down a highway. She called her brother, who lives in town. He said his kidney hurt and he couldn’t come pick us up. A puppy came up and played with Sole while she smoked a cigarette.

We waved down a cattle truck that had stopped at the junction. The cattle had plastic tags on their ears. Some of them looked at us as we walked to the cab.

Sole asked the driver if he´d take us down the road, to the turnoff to her town.

Sole threw her bag in the back of the cab and climbed up and then took my backpack and I got in and we pulled out.

The driver’s name was Omar. He had Gauchito Gil stickers and Virgin Mary prayer cards stuck to the dash, and red Chinese tassels dangling from the ceiling. There were cases of CDs and a pack of cigarettes and a lighter by the steering wheel. He was 21 he said, and started trucking after high school, because his dad did it.

We got up to speed. There were stripped cowhides in a ditch on the side of the road.

We got to the turnoff and he stopped and we climbed down and said thanks.

We waited a few more minutes. A lady got dropped off at the corner. She was waiting for a ride in the direction we came from.

I took some pictures. One car drove past without stopping. Sole said that’s bad manners. A lumber truck stopped and the lady got in and it drove away.

Another car turned the corner and came past us. They stopped.

It was a girl Sole knew from high school. They hadn’t seen each other since.

We got in. They had a German shepherd in back that barked and put its teeth against the glass as we got close. It won’t bite her mom said. Her dad was driving.

I sat in front while Sole was in back saying what she’d done since high school. The other girl had spent a year working in New Zealand picking kiwis and apples and studying English.

We drove past barns and houses as the sun was getting lower and the green of the trees and fields was glowing.

We got dropped off in the downtown, which is one street that runs for five or six blocks. The dog hits its face against the window and growled again when we got out of the car.

We walked towards her grandparents’ house, which is empty now that both of them have passed away. Sole found 20 pesos on the ground, on the sidewalk. For the beer, she said.

A lot of people were sitting outside on the sidewalk, in lawn chairs, in front of their homes or stores. Some were drinking mate, others beer. Some of them stared at us. Sole said adios or chau to most of them.

Her aunt and uncle were waiting for us at the house to give us the keys.

Her aunt married late because her father was protective and jealous. She married a man named José, a few years ago, whose wife had died. He’s a tenant farmer and works on a piece of property outside the town that’s owned by somebody else. The owner’s called the patron.

The property’s got both pasture – for sheep and cows – and farmland. José also has some chickens and geese for himself and his wife and sons.

I sat in the living room with José while Sole’s aunt was showing her the house and the room she made up for us. We were watching TV.

They were showing clips of a school employee getting punched and slapped by parents and other people standing and looking. He had touched some of the kids, apparently. They interviewed him with his face bleeding. He went inside the school and a woman shut the door behind him and kept the camera out.

Sole’s aunt gave me a glass of water. It tasted like something and had white flakes floating in the bottom. Sole said the town’s water’s been contaminated, that it’s got a bunch of minerals and other stuff in it and they buy bottled water mostly now.

Her uncle asked if we wanted to shower. Sole opened her bag and touched-up her makeup and sprayed deodorant. Her uncle looked at her and raised his voice and said just take a shower. We’re just going to keep sweating, she said.

We all left the house and got into José’s car that he’d just bought used. We drove to Sole’s brother’s house. His name’s Pepe and he works for the Argentine post office. There was a white Correo Argentino pick-up in the driveway. We got out and walked around to their backyard.

His little daughter was there with a friend, and a couple big dogs, and he and his wife were sitting in lawn chairs. Pepe had his shirt off. They were drinking mate. You could see big grain silos off beyond their brick fence.

Pepe´s brother talks like Marlon Brando. He called me maestro.

His wife used to teach Italian, but just stopped. She’d been to Italy, too. She also teaches in an elementary school in a village outside of Maciá. It was too much work doing both.

She said the elementary school doesn’t have running water, so the teachers have to bring it with them each day. She said it was a disaster that day, with the heat, and they had to ration it for the kids.

There’s not even running water for the bathrooms, she said.

Sole and I left and said bye. We walked along gravel roads, then paved roads. The sun had set and it was getting dark.

We passed a slaughterhouse, where Sole said you can hear the braying at night when the cows are lined up and killed. She said they were taken there in elementary school once, to see how it works.

We went to Sole’s mom’s house. She lives by herself. Her ex-, Sole’s dad, lives in Paraná, now.

Her mom said there’s a lot of discontented women in Maciá, and that she’s a threat because she’s so active. She has a green belt in Tae Kwon Do and does Arabian dancing and works with the women’s national basketball team, which she played for a long time ago.

We left and walked back downtown.

We went to Dani’s, an ice cream parlor. There’s three on main street. One’s corporate, but Dani’s and the other are local and have homemade ice cream made with fresh local milk.

We got ice cream cones. I got dulce de leche and white chocolate. Dani served us. A cone with two big scoops cost less than a dollar. Sole said you could tell the ice cream was fresh because it was so smooth. She asked and Dani said it was made that morning.

We sat outside and ate and then went back in and washed our hands at a little plastic fountain by the bathroom.

Clouds were blowing in and the moon had a halo around it. We thought it might rain.

Sole’s roommate Flor was back home, visiting, too. Her boyfriend lives in Maciá and owns a clothes shop. We went there and Flor came out with a shirt she’d tried on and they shared a cigarette.

Sole and I went back to her mom’s house. She’s turned her house into a medical office, for specialists to come to from outside of town. A doctor from Rosario was doing an exam and we had to be quiet so we walked to the backyard and waited for dinner.

There was an old empty concrete swimming pool. There were weeds growing in it. We sat on the edge and talked. She said spiders and scorpions live in the pool, now. I told her about how there was a scorpion in the shower with me right after I got to Paraná, in the professor’s house I’d been living in.

I said I didn’t really know it was so poisonous when I saw it and just sprayed water on it, which seemed to do it. But then I came back after I dried off and it was still alive and killed it with a squeegee and washed it down the drain. She said I shouldn’t have washed it down the drain.

Sole’s mom made perdix for dinner, which is a partridge that lives in the monte and is common to eat. It was marinated in a vinegar sauce and served with carrots and onions.

Perdix is Spanish are called perdiz, or perdices, plural. Children´s stories end with the line "Vivieron felices y comieron perdices", which means "They lived happily and ate perdix".

Sole’s mom has three phones, which were on the table while we ate. One is a cordless landline. The other two are cell phones.

We finished and left and went home to shower and change.

We went back out and walked along main street.

There’s two big bars in town. They’re called social clubs and are wide, bare halls with pool tables and a bar and tables on the sidewalks out front.

I saw her uncle sitting at a table drinking with a few other people as we walked by on the other side of the street.

Kids cruise around back and forth on the main drag at night. The rich boys have expensive new pick-up trucks and call girls to give them the privilege of going for a spin.

We bought two bottles of beer at a corner store with the money from the sidewalk.

We walked to her friend Nigel’s house, who she went to high school with. He and a few other friends had barbequed and were watching concert DVDs of Pink Floyd and the Traveling Wilburys and Rammstein.

We sat on the driveway and passed around bottles of beer and Nigel and another friend called Fausto played guitars and sang John Lennon and Ray Orbison songs. Fausto played an acoustic and Nigel an electric. The amp was in the living room but he played outside.

Fausto asked me if I like rock and roll. I said yes.

He’s about 30 and is tall and has curly, fluffy hair and teaches music in an elementary school in town.

He was pretty drunk and telling me about the fundamental basis of life in the country; that being surrounded by so much green calms people down, that the people are hardworking, and so on.

He said the U.S. has got something in that the states don’t fight with each other, the way the provinces do here.

I went inside and took a sausage and a bun and made a choripan. The meat had been sitting for a while and was dry, and the bread was dry. It was tough to chew but it was OK.

The breeze was steady and the night got cool. We got up around 2 and said bye and Sole and I walked back to her grandparent’s house.

The next day we were going to the country, she said.